7 things nobody tells you about Munsiyari home stay!

UPDATED: 19/09/2018

If you want to soak in the culture of a place, then home stay is the way to go. If you want to experience village life, the Sarmoli village homestays in Munsiyari, Uttarakhand offer the perfect opportunity. 

Starting at Rs. 1350 per person per night, inclusive of food (local cuisine), the ‘Maati home stays’ in Sarmoli village of Munsiyari are undeniably for a particular niche in the market – the ever growing Indian urban middle class seeking experience beyond the concrete walls of resorts and hotels.

We stayed in Sarmoli Homestay for around 11 days. In this blog post we have highlighted 7 things no one tells you about these village homestays. 

A lot has been written about the sheer beauty of Munsiyari in Uttarakhand which is nestled between the snow-clad mountain peaks of the Panchachuli and Rajrambha. A kilometer from Munsiyari is the tiny village of Sarmoli.

Maati in Sarmoli is a collective of about 20 women that first came together as a response to domestic violence. Maati Sangathan started its village Homestay program in 2004 where the locals rented out extra rooms in houses to tourists / paying guests.

cream coloured Kumaoni traditional house in sarmoli, Munsiyari, Pitthoragarh, Uttrakhand, India
Maati Sanghthan Village Homestay

7 things nobody tells you about sarmoli homestay

Before we left for Sarmoli we had read and re-read all about the beautiful village, the places we could trek, the places we should visit and about the entrepreneur ladies of Maati Sanghthan who were running Homestays.

Our host family was very affectionate and welcoming and it felt as if we were part of their family. Our homestay experience was so heartwarming that my daughter cried her heart out when we had to leave the place.

However, it turns out that there are 7 things no one tells you about Sarmoli HomeStay. I am highlighting these points so that a visitor knows what’s in store in this off-beat destination.

1. Cramped Public Conveyance:

If you are driving down to Sarmoli then God’s be with you to deal with the treacherous turns and appalling traffic.

If you happen to travel in a shared cab, just the way we did, Be Warned!

White coloured Mahindra Maxx is an off road SUV which was launched in 1992.
Be prepared to be cooped inside like chickens in pen.

Travelers and SUVs run on these roads as taxis. One can either book the entire SUV or pay per person basis (the more economical way of course). If you belong to the latter category be prepared to be cooped inside the SUV like chickens in pen.

With limited leg space, you need to sit with your legs folded with chin on it looking like a Praying Mantis!

The back seat of a Mahindra Maxx has been altered to act as a small gate
Involuntary Helper’s Seat!

If you happen to be sitting on the chair which opens up, you also get to involuntarily play the Driver’s helper. You need to open the seat, step out and let people get in or get out. Then you need to hop back in after everyone and close the seat.

2. It's a Serpentine Road to Sarmoli:

Truth be told, people with motion sickness be aware! A word of warning to even those who do not have motion sickness. The winding and twisting road can test one’s limits! Every second vehicle that passes by, will tell tales of projectile vomit.

hay stacks kept on the side of a hilly road
Unending Serpentine Road

“I get very sick on the roads to Sarmoli,” said Chandra didi our Homestay host in Sarmoli.

“So why don’t you take Avomine or some other medicine”.

“If I take medicine, I will doze off, then how will I watch the beautiful scenery,” she smiled with twinkling eyes.

Chandra didi is a Sarmoli resident, she belongs to this place and yet cannot let the opportunity of soaking in the scenic route go by, such is the beauty of this place.

e card which reads you know you are a mom when instead of running from projectile vomit, you run towards it

But if you have young ones or older ones with a tendency to feel nausea, my sincere advice would be to take a medicine whose active ingredient is promethazine which blocks receptors in an area of the brain called the vomiting center.

3. Bloodsuckers on the Way!

“Eeyew, eeyew, eeyew . . . I have got something ugly on my legs!” reported our 11-year-old.

“That’s a Leech, it sucks blood!” I uttered nonchalantly.

Her eyes big in horror, my daughter spurted, “Whaa…? Get it off me”.

foot of a child with blood on it due to Leech Bite
Involuntary blood donor to the leeches!

As I flicked off the slimy little hitchhiker’s head with my long nails we noticed another one on my husband’s foot. Having had it’s full, the leech just rolled off his foot as if stumbling out of a bar.

We dabbed the open wound with a clean tissue and applied a little antiseptic (A First-Aid kit is always in the bag as you never know when the kids might need it).

Panchachuli mountain range

Be it a long trek to Milam Glacier, or a shorter one to Khalia Bugyal or even a short climb to Mesar Kund you need to wade through typical Himalayan temperate forests which especially in the Wet Season are full of wild and enthralling animals.

One of those habitants with a bad reputation are leeches,  lurching in the moist and dark undergrowth, waiting for warm blood like count Dracula.

Whenever we would venture out, Saraswati didi, one of the Home-stay entrepreneurs would always remind us, “namak rakha ya nahin?”. Turns out, if the blood-sucking worms happen to attach themselves to you, sprinkle salt over it and VOILA the leech will leave you.

4. Be prepared to clean your room and wash dishes

We trek, we travel and we have been to a few other home-stays before. But this was the first time when we were venturing into a “long-stay-at-one-place” kind of thing. We were in Sarmoli for little less than two weeks. We were not aware that we would be expected to do our chores ourselves. Initially, we were shocked/surprised to know that we had to clean our rooms and do the dishes. However, with time, we got used to the routine.

A woman drying clothes on the clothesline of a terrace of home stay in Sarmoli
Washing Machine is not available

If you happen to stay for more than 3 days in the Sarmoli Homestays then be ready to do the chores yourself. The home-stay Program rules are very clear. For the safety of both the host and the guest, the host does not enter the room which has been rented out to the guests. 

A fresh bed sheet is given to you to change after every third day. If you wish you can clean the room yourself. Sarmoli houses do not collect much of dust around but if you are traveling with kids, you might end up sweeping the floors (like we did).

view from inside of the room of Sarmoli home stay.
Chandra didi’s Home Stay

Food at Munsiyai Village Homestay

The food is prepared by the hosts. You are expected to wash the used utensils. My husband and I took turns to wash the utensils whilst the kids washed the glasses. It does get a little frustrating at night as the water in the tap is considerably cold. And did I mention you need to wash your clothes with your own hands (no washing machine)!? It took us a day or two to get used to the routine and then it was an easy sail.

Before you commit yourselves to a longer stay (more than 3 days) consider your comfort zone in doing these chores during vacations.

5. Know your weather

We were in Sarmoli in End April and Early may and we found Sarmoli being notorious for being rainy even in the brightest days of summer. One minute it’s pleasant sunshine, you are so confident that you wash a bucket full of clothes, hang them to dry and trot away around the village. Next minute, bam! The clouds come over, the sky turns grey and the worst part – the clothes you had put for drying are about to get wet! Very wet!

clouds over green Himalayan Mountains in Sarmoli, Munsiyari, Pithoragarh, Uttarakhand
Sarmoli is notorious for being rainy even in the brightest days of summer

If you are not around, the hosts will keep the clothes in shade. However, if it continues to rain, the clothes don’t dry inside the rooms.

If you are visiting Munsiyari during monsoons, don’t forget to pack a raincoat or a small umbrella.

6. There are frequent power cuts

kids watching Cricket match in traditional Kumaoni house
Kids trying to catch Cricket match amidst erratic power cuts in our Host’s house!

With rain comes the lightning and thunder and, more likely than not, also brings with it the occasional power outage. The worst thing is when the power goes out at night due to bad weather. This means that people who are supposed to fix the problem may themselves be seeking shelter and so it may take a considerable time for the lights to be on again. Did I mention that in all likelihood the internet access would be erratic too?

two orange coloured solar cookers kept atop the terrace of a village home stay in Sarmoli, Munsiyari, Uttarakhand, India
Plans to make Maggi in Solar Cooker were dampened by the unexpected rains

Don’t only make hay when the sun shines but also charge your Solar Lamps. Solar Lamps are provided by the host family. Keep your cell phones/ laptops, power banks or any other gadget charged whenever the power is available.

How Solar Lamp helped me catch my husband sleeping with someone!!

One night, during one such power cut, my husband went off to sleep whilst I sat at the dining table jabbing at my Mac Book trying to write something in the light of the Solar Lamp. After having finished my work, I entered our room with the solar lamp in one hand.

cream and brown coloured Indian cat sleeping on a slab

As I was about to climb the bed I noticed two eyes glaring back at me. There was a cat sleeping with authority on what was supposed to have been my duvet. I muffled my scream afraid the cat might jump on my husband who was sound asleep. But I Guess, with a lamp in one hand on a dark thundering night, I must have scared the cat more than it had scared me.

It purred,

I screamed,

and as I was about to run out of the room deserting my husband in the cat’s company, the cat ran out of the room past my legs.

And this is how a well charged Solar Lamp saved me from sleeping on a cat! 

Tip for parents: Carry with you good reading books, board games, UNO cards, craft materials to keep your little ones busy during a power outage. Travel sketching is a good way to creatively engage children on a rainy day.

 7. The Locals measure Distances in syllables

two woman standing under a Deodar tree in Sarmoli village of Munsiyari“Buss yahin”

“haan, wahin”

Doesn’t it sound like a Shahrukh Khan Movie song !? Everything is “buss pass mein hi hai”, and that near distance is ever so far!

Home Stay host lady blessing the Author's husband before they parted in front of a Kumaoni village house
It’s time to say goodbye

In Sarmoli the locals love to stress on their syllables. 

“Where is Khali top?”

“Woh doooooooor wahan.” Looooooonger the stress, faaaaaarther is the distance.

“How tall is it?”

“Bohot oooooooooncha hai.” Wel, we got the idea it was pretty tall.

So when it was time to say goodbye, we told our warm host, we will miss you a loooooooooooot!!

Green Himalayan mountains with small village houses
Munsiyari town as seen from Sarmoli Village

Village homestay, uttarakhand

Don’t’ mistake the Sarmoli village Homestay for luxurious homestays. These are humble dwellings which help in connecting with the locals.

These homestays are meant for you if you are comfortable staying with the locals, eating local food, and want to understand their culture, their struggles, their beliefs and their love for nature.

Keep on reading: 11 Awesome Home stays to check out in 2018

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Have you been to any such village homestay? Do share your experience with us by leaving a comment below.

10 thoughts on “7 things nobody tells you about Munsiyari home stay!”

  1. I wish I had read this before visiting the Sarmoli home stays. I would also like to share my experience here so that it helps others:
    The stay has no basic necessities for the amount you pay. You don’t even have a room heater when the temperature is around 0 deg and the guests are expected to manage with hot water bags! Malik paints a very rosy picture of the stays! Make sure you don’t fall for this trap.The moment you give the feedback about the stay, you will feel the heat of her atrocity!

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